Dhaulagiri climbing resumes as teams return to Base Camp

Expedition teams are pushing toward summit attempts on Dhaulagiri in October 2026 after stable weather returned. Operators including 8K Expeditions and Seven Summit Treks announced the resumption of climbs on October 1, following a period of torrential rain and heavy snowfall.

Paul Clarke of Australia noted the changed atmosphere. "There’s a totally different vibe here in Base Camp, with helicopters buzzing all day as they bring in climbers and Sherpas," he said. The massive outfitters 14 Peaks Expeditions and Seven Summit Treks have also returned, significantly swelling the population at base camp.

Bargiel’s team advances on acclimatization push

Polish ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel arrived at Dhaulagiri with his team. After a first night at the lower, more comfortable Italian Camp at 3,600 meters, they headed up the mountain immediately. Bargiel, who previously acclimatized in the Manaslu area and reached 6,000 meters there, is preparing for a ski descent from Dhaulagiri's summit without supplementary oxygen. He should be at Camp 2 today and is planning to head further up tomorrow.

Rope-fixing enables higher camps

Sherpa teams have been critical to the progress. After digging out ropes buried in snow, a fixing team fixed 400 meters of rope above Camp 2. Lakpa Sherpa of 8K Expeditions confirmed the team plans to continue fixing lines to Camp 3 tomorrow. With this positive news, climbing teams set off today aiming to follow the rope-fixers toward Camp 3, which is situated at 7,300 to 7,400 meters and is typically the highest camp on Dhaulagiri’s normal route.

Conditions remain challenging despite progress

While the weather is currently holding, significant challenges persist. There is no broken trail on Dhaulagiri, and conditions remain uncertain. Climbers attempting to summit immediately may face risks from insufficient rest and acclimatization before an extremely long summit day. Outfitters are under pressure to secure summits quickly. The sooner Dhaulagiri expeditions conclude, the sooner resources can be shifted to other commercial peaks like Ama Dablam.

Climber numbers rise as Manaslu access declines

The closure of Manaslu for much of the season has influenced climber numbers on Dhaulagiri. According to an October 1 update from Nepal’s Department of Tourism, 36 foreign climbers are now listed for Dhaulagiri, up from 34 two weeks prior. The department had earlier listed four teams comprising 34 foreign climbers with permits. Factoring in Sherpas, the total number of climbers currently on the mountain is estimated at 70 to 80. Paul Clarke stated he was not aware of climbers directly moving from Manaslu, but confirmed that a number had booked for Manaslu-Dhaulagiri double-headers and were among those newly arrived.

Clarke, his partner Xenia Santha, and the rest of their 8K team waited one day for condition reports before moving up. Most climbers fit enough to advance might gather at Camp 3 tomorrow. Andrzej Bargiel should be at Camp 2 on Dhaulagiri today and heading further up tomorrow.