Two Climbers Die in Manaslu Avalanche; Summit Push Underway
An avalanche on Manaslu killed two climbers as hundreds vie for the summit ahead of an approaching cyclone. Experts warn of dangerous conditions while teams choose between waiting, retreating, or pushing on.
Two climbers are dead after an avalanche struck Camp 3 on Manaslu, as a narrowing weather window and an approaching cyclone pressure over 1,000 people on the mountain. The Everest Chronicle reported that Indian-German climber Dhruba Jyoti Guha and his guide Phursemba Sherpa were found buried under two meters of snow after a broken snow slab triggered the slide.
A short summit window is forecast to open, but a cyclone forming in the Bay of Bengal is expected to hit Nepal's mountains between Wednesday and Friday. This forces all climbers and support staff to be off the peak by then.
Fatal Avalanche and Fading Conditions
Guha and Phursemba Sherpa, part of a team outfitted by Makalu Adventure, had moved to Camp 3 ahead of their teammates in hopes of an early summit bid. Their expedition leader raised the alarm after losing radio contact. A drone survey later revealed the broken snow slab that likely caused the fatal avalanche.
The incident has heightened fears on a mountain already facing a compressed schedule. Veteran climber Simone Moro, on his seventh Manaslu expedition, retreated from Camp 3 to Base Camp due to the forecast. From Base Camp, he posted a warning about the collective decision facing climbers.
All we 400 hundred people currently in Base Camp have a wonderful opportunity to show that safety is the most important, or to show the world that we don't care about the danger, and we try to make a Russian roulette climb, Moro stated. He suggested a safe summit might require waiting weeks, not days.
Expert Calls for Caution
Reinhold Messner endorsed Moro's cautious stance on social media. No amount of money, and no summit, is worth risking a life: not for a guide, and not for a climber who has paid or booked for the ascent, Messner wrote. "Life is worth more."
Guide Mingma G of Imagine Nepal also urged prudence, hoping climbers check forecasts and that the Nepali government has emergency plans ready. Mingma G recently led recovery operations on Broad Peak following a major avalanche there.
With the cyclone looming, teams on Manaslu have adopted one of three strategies.
Team Strategies on the Mountain
| Strategy | Team/Leader | Reported Plan/Status |
|---|---|---|
| Wait | Russian team led by Arten Tsentevitski | Choosing a patient approach due to hazardous snow. |
| Wait | Elite Exped | Team resting after acclimatization rotation. |
| Go Home | American guide Luke Smithwick and skiing team | Expedition called off due to cyclone risks. |
| Move Up | Summit Force | At least two senior guides are in Camp 3. |
| Move Up | 14 Peaks Expeditions | Teams heading up, assessing conditions camp by camp. |
| Move Up | Seven Summit Treks (Chhang Dawa Sherpa) | Will move up and decide as they go. |
| Move Up | 8K Expeditions (Lakpa Sherpa) | Members positioned from Base Camp to Camp 3. |
| Move Up | 7 Summits Club (Alexander Abramov) | Team of 17 Sherpas and 17 clients aiming for Sept. 23 summit. |
Among those moving up are American climbers Justin Sackett and Ryan Mitchel, who retreated to Base Camp after the avalanche news but have since returned to Camp 1. "We will turn around if we find unstable conditions, not worth dying for," Sackett reported.
Lakpa Sherpa of 8K Expeditions noted conditions cannot be judged from Base Camp alone. His team's guides will make assessments during the climb, with a potential summit push planned for September 23-24 if safety allows.
Photos from Base Camp showed clearing skies yesterday, but snow returned this afternoon. The avalanche-prone slopes between Camps 3 and 4, along with the final summit ramps, remain areas of particular concern. Alexander Abramov of the 7 Summits Club said waiting for perfect conditions would take too much time, so his team is proceeding with oxygen support.
Avalanche risk assessment demands specific skill on a peak like Manaslu, where summit fever can sometimes override judgment. It creates a delicate balance for guides deciding when to turn clients around.
