Russian Team Seeks Funding for New Everest Route
An all-Russian team, led by Andrey Vasiliev, is seeking funding to pioneer a new alpine-style route on Everest without oxygen or support next spring.
An all-Russian mountaineering team is seeking last-minute funding to attempt a new, unsupported route on Mount Everest. Led by Andrey Vasiliev, the team plans to climb without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support in alpine style next spring, but first needs money for a scouting expedition this autumn.
Vasiliev, along with teammates Sergey Kondrashkin, Vitaly Shipilov, and Natalya Belyankina, will fly to Kathmandu to begin reconnaissance. According to Vasiliev, the team's plans remain fluid. "Once there, we'll see," he told ExplorersWeb. The group aims to test their gear and acclimatization on Everest this fall, a key step given the peak's greater height compared to their previous success on Manaslu.
Financial Hurdles
The team's expertise is not in question. Last year, they opened a new route on the Southwest Face of Manaslu, an achievement that earned them the Russian Piolet d'Or and was ranked among the best expeditions of the year by ExplorersWeb. Vasiliev has also led two prior attempts on Everest's formidable South Face. Their current obstacle is purely financial.
Days before their planned departure, they lack the funds for the autumn expedition. "We still need to raise [nearly $24,000] to cover the fall expedition," confirmed team member Natalya Belyankina. She previously stated that the full spring attempt in 2025 will cost almost $240,000. The high costs persist even for an alpine-style, unsupported climb.
Contingency Plans
The funding shortfall has forced the team to develop multiple backup plans. That is why we currently have in mind Plans A, B, and C, each of them very different, Vasiliev said. While hoping for last-minute sponsorship, the team is realistically preparing to attempt a more economical 8,000-meter peak or a lesser mountain if the Everest funds do not materialize.
A successful autumn scouting mission on Everest would present unique logistical challenges. The team would be alone on the mountain and would need to handle the dangerous Khumbu Icefall without the established infrastructure of the spring season. This feat has been done before, such as when Andrzej Bargiel skied down the mountain last fall, but it requires specific snow conditions or an alternative route.
Permit Cost Comparison
A key factor in their planning is the significant variation in climbing permit fees between seasons and peaks. Climbing Everest in the autumn is cheaper than in the crowded spring season.
| Peak | Season | Permit Type | Fee |
|---|---|---|---|
| Everest | Spring | Standard | $15,000 |
| Everest | Autumn | South Col Route | $7,500 |
| Everest | Autumn | New Route | $5,000 |
| Manaslu | Autumn | Standard | $3,000 per person |
| Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna | Autumn | Standard | $1,500 |
The team's ideal Plan A involves that $5,000 autumn permit for a new route on Everest. The financial pressure is acute. Vasiliev, speaking on a Monday, had not yet given up hope for a sponsor to enable the team to pursue their primary objective on the world's highest peak.
