The Iceland Traverse: Conquering the Fommvorduhals Traverse and Completing the Laugavegur Trail

The final day on the Laugavegur Trail marked the second-to-last day of the Iceland Traverse, with hikers tackling the demanding Fommvorduhals Traverse. This 14km stretch promised rugged mountain passes and steep climbs, but the journey began with a leisurely start at 8am under low-hanging clouds. The forecast predicted clearing skies by 9:30am, offering hope for better visibility as they ascended.

## The Ascent and the Clouds

The trail started with a river crossing in the Porsmork valley, followed by a path through intermittent woodland. A steep climb through birch forests led to a viewpoint overlooking a waterfall, but by 10am, the clouds still obscured the view. The path wound through ridges covered in green moss and black rocks, some perilously narrow with steep drops on either side. Despite the limited visibility, the hikers pressed on, catching up with fellow travelers from the previous night’s cabin.

The climb continued relentlessly, with the trail splitting off to the right. A brief clearing in the clouds revealed waterfalls and glimpses of sunlight, but the path soon descended sharply onto a narrow ridge. A fixed rope provided some security as the hikers navigated the precarious section, followed by a steep scramble to reach the summit. The summit itself was snow-covered, with icy fields stretching as far as the eye could see. The hikers carefully traversed the slippery terrain, making slow progress before reaching a rocky foothold.

## Lunch and the Descent

After a quick lunch at Baldvinsskali Hut-a welcome respite from the cold, though it came with a fee-the hikers resumed their descent. The trail down was easier, a wide, graded path that wound down the mountain alongside a river. A bridge helped them cross the river, leading to a path lined with waterfalls and canyons carved by the river.

The journey ended at Skogarfoss, a spectacular waterfall, though the crowds made it difficult to appreciate fully. With the Fommvorduhals Traverse and the Laugavegur Trail complete, only a short road walk remained to reach the campsite. Unfortunately, the campsite was one of the worst on the trip-expensive, with minimal facilities and wet, muddy ground. Despite the discomfort, the hikers set up camp, preparing for their final day on the trail toward the southern tip of Iceland.