Mount Olympus West Slabs: Classic 5.4 Climb
A climber details a summer ascent of Utah's 1,660-foot West Slabs on Mount Olympus, praising the climb but describing a dangerous, thirsty descent.
A climber and his now-wife Rita tackled the classic West Slabs route on Utah's Mount Olympus during a July road trip. The 5.4-grade climb stretches for 1,660 feet above Salt Lake City.
The source, writing for Climbing.com, describes the adventure. They were visiting a friend in the area who recommended the route for its stellar reputation. The approach began directly from a suburban subdivision, highlighting the fast access to big adventure that defines the Wasatch Front for local climbers.
The Ascent on Bullet Stone
Hiking up in the late-July heat, they gazed at over 1,500 feet of what they call "bullet stone" rising from the city's edge. The pair planned to solo the route and carried three liters of water in a single shared hydration bladder. The climbing on featured quartzite was consistently high-quality. Every hold seemed bigger than the last.
The 5.4 crux involves a left-facing dihedral. The writer calls it secure and enjoyable, requiring a few "smeary feet" during a layback transition onto the face. As the buildings of Salt Lake City shrank below, they played games, competing to find the largest jug holds on the expansive slab.
A Descent Gone Wrong
After topping out on a large ledge, their trouble began. Instead of seeking the proper hiking trail descent, they opted to down-climb into a southern gully. It seemed like a direct line back. The first sign of error was an abundance of rattlesnakes. The writer notes the reptiles hate busy trails, suggesting their chosen path was seldom traveled.
Panic set in. The intense heat and physical exertion led to severe dehydration. The writer realized he hadn't drunk water since starting the climb. When he finally grabbed the pack, the bladder was empty save for air. Both climbers suffered, with Rita needing to collapse in the shade before a final push to the car. The writer was exhausted by the constant fear of a snakebite miles from help.
Their friend Mckenna later informed them of a mellow hiking trail off the true summit of Mount Olympus that provides a straightforward descent. The source attributes their misadventure to being fresh out of college and underplanning during the flow of a long road trip.
Route Beta
For climbers considering the West Slabs, the source provides the following details from their experience:
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| First Ascent | Unknown |
| Length | 1,660 feet |
| Approach | From the Bonneville Shoreline "Z" Connector trailhead; about 45 minutes to the base |
| Pitches | Can be done in 10 with a stretched rope; the party soloed |
| Estimated Time | A half-day, depending on weather and descent choice |
| Protection | A light alpine rack of small cams and nuts |
The article ends with a pro tip drawn from their ordeal: don't give your partner the CamelBak.
