Hiker Battles Glacier Park's Rain and Wind

A Continental Divide Trail traveler endured a severe weather ordeal while traversing Glacier National Park in late June. The trek from Atlantic Creek Campground to Two Medicine involved a grueling climb over Pitamakan Pass in driving rain, hail, and winds strong enough to threaten balance.

A Dreary Start and a Wet Ascent

The morning at Atlantic Creek Campground was cold and dreary, with rain having fallen overnight. The backpacker, writing for The Trek, described a world obscured by fog, creating a moody atmosphere unlike typical Western hiking conditions. Despite the poor visibility, the day's mileage was relatively short at around 15 miles.

The ascent toward Pitamakan Pass was gradual. Views at Pitamakan Lake were ethereal but limited by the fog. The trekker navigated snowfields, following a GPS track and other hikers' footsteps. At the top of the pass, the view was nonexistent, but a sliver of cell service allowed for brief communication before the rain began in earnest.

Seeking Shelter at Two Medicine

The rain did not relent after the pass. A complication arose: rain pants purchased four years prior on the Pacific Crest Trail no longer fit, restricting movement. The adventurer relied on an Arc’teryx rain shell to keep the upper body dry during the approximately seven-mile descent to the Two Medicine area.

The destination was the Two Medicine Lodge, a hoped-for source of warmth, a fire, and hot food. To reach it, the individual had to ford a creek connecting Pray Lake with Two Medicine Lake, adding a final shock of cold to already soaked shoes and clothing.

Lodge Refuge and a Soggy Camp

The lodge was open and became a crucial refuge. Inside, the thru-hiker found other Continental Divide Trail backpackers with waterlogged packs, a cafe serving hot breakfast sandwiches, and a warm fire. The person spent hours there while the rain persisted and even intensified outside. Some hikers hitched back to a hostel in East Glacier or planned to 'slack pack' the section later.

The lodge eventually closed for the day. The assigned campground was an unsatisfactory area described as a storage site for unused construction equipment and gravel piles, with almost no flat, dry ground for a tent. A bear box and porta-potty were the only amenities. The camper pitched a tent on uneven ground, resulting in a pool of water inside one corner, which was soaked up using a merino wool base layer. Miraculously, the sleeping bag stayed dry.

A Harrowing Morning Climb

The next morning, June 29, the traveler awoke at 5 a.m. to ongoing rain. The day's immediate challenge was a steep mountain pass, requiring a climb of over 2,000 feet in under three miles. The light but consistent rain intensified with elevation, eventually mixing with hail. Winds became so violent the backpacker had to fight for each step on the switchbacks, with gusts shifting unpredictably.

The cold became severe. While working hard ascending, the individual experienced teeth-chattering shivers, a numb face, and genuine fear of hypothermia. This fear solidified a determination to keep pushing forward. Reaching the crest of the pass offered no reprieve, as winds intensified further along a ridge, threatening to knock the trekker off balance.

Salvation seemed to lie behind a terrain feature that promised a wind block. However, upon reaching it, the wind shifted to hammer from the completely exposed opposite side, prompting a furious, wind-muffled yell. The descent toward tree-line finally brought relief from the worst of the wind. The hiker moved through the rain with machine-like vigilance, focused solely on reaching a hot shower.