GR54 Hiker Skips Mountain for Village Tour

A hiker on the GR54 long-distance trail has taken a day off from the main route, opting to walk around a mountain instead of over it. The decision was made after viewing the planned stage: less than 10km involving a 1200-meter climb immediately followed by a 1200-meter descent.

The hiker, writing for The Trek, found this pattern on the GR54 section to be boring due to the lack of time to enjoy the views at the top. The alternate route presented a first-time opportunity to tour small French towns and experience local mountain culture, aligning with the spirit of their "Hexishtrek" journey.

Step Back in Time

The flat terrain of the alternate route allowed for a leisurely morning spent chatting with other hikers and eating breakfast under a tree. The trail, described as less travelled, first revealed a rotary dial telephone, which the hiker jokingly used to call Alpine government departments to request cooler temperatures.

The next few hours were spent walking between villages on an excellent trail network, presumed to be used mainly by locals for exercise. The hiker noted an apparent absence of people, speculating that villagers might only venture out on foot on odd-numbered days.

It Got Hot

The heat persisted despite the morning's faux phone calls. The French authorities were humorously accused of turning the dial "all the way to boiling again." After completing the village tour, the trail entered a forest where pine trees provided relief from the sun.

Even under tree cover, the hiker lost significant amounts of water, feeling dried "like a coconut husk" by midday. A shaded spot by a river offered a chance to plunge into icy water, which caused a sizzling reaction likened to a steak hitting a hot pan. Lunch consisted of chorizo, cheese, and mayonnaise wrapped in a tortilla.

Returning to the trail, the hiker observed significant damage attributed to the French beaver population, noting that eradication efforts clearly still have work to do. A final village provided a chapel with an electrical outlet and a 150-year-old tap offering unfiltered drinking water, a noted joy for a thirsty hiker.

End of the Jaunt

A short walk from the last village led to a dedicated bivouac area for GR54 hikers. The hiker arrived mid-afternoon and joined others who had taken the direct mountain route. Their reports confirmed the expected experience: a straight up and straight down journey taking about five hours for most.

After setting up a tent and hammock, the afternoon was interrupted by a massive thunderstorm. The hiker and others spent the rest of the evening huddled in their tents, fortunate to be off the mountain during the storm.